Monday, August 07, 2006

Damilano Barolo 2001 - WS 2005年排名第60的 Damilano 巴羅洛 2001


Damilano 2001 Barolo
Varietal: Nebbiolo
Appellation: Langhe, Piedmont, Italy
WS: 92
Price: $29.95
Dealer: LA Wine Company


# 60 WS Top 100 of 2005

Content Info:
14 % Alco. By Vol.

Background Info:
“巴羅洛”(Barolo) 是目前在義大利北部 Piedmont 省區的葡萄酒 King, 與另一個代表”巴貝瑞斯可”(Barbaresco) 葡萄酒 Queen, 一起為 Piedmont 省國際知名的兩大葡萄酒代表, 對於 Barolo 的初步認識, 我們可以根據 cheveu 在五四三音樂站的文章”瓊漿玉液”提到: ”義大利全省20個地區皆有產酒, 其中紅酒的產量大於白酒, 也較為世人所熟悉。 西北山區的皮耶蒙堤和中部的托斯卡納是最著名的葡萄酒產區, 其中前者以 Nebbiolo 葡萄為底的 Barolo 和 Barbaresco 酒最為著名, 而後者則以 Sangiovese 葡萄釀製的 Chianti 酒最廣為人知 (還記得以前底部用乾草包著的可愛大肚瓶嗎?) 同樣產於托斯卡納的 Brunello di Montalcino 與 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 也是位列 D.O.C.G 級的好酒。” 以及 Jason Liu 劉永智先生在大同亞瑟頓的文章”1997 Barolo Tasting Notes”解說著: ”Barolo 與 Barbaresco 產區的「新潮與古典學派之爭」(Barolo War)。 一般來說,古典的 Barolo(traditionalists) 需要經過老舊的 Slovenia 大型橡木桶陳年四到五年之久, 並且在裝瓶之後還須等上一二十年以上才開始適飲, 而新潮派(modernists) 開始使用高級的法國小型橡木桶,大大縮短了葡萄酒的熟成期, 使大家能夠更快地享用 Barolo。 然而,古典學派認為這樣的Barolo不是真正的Barolo, 他們認為真正Barolo的珍貴處在於它獨特的香氣: 如松露、 皮革、 林下地系氣味、 香料味等等, 而不是像 Cabernet-Sauvignon 完全以新鮮的果香作驅動, 而古典的香氣則需要酒液在大型舊橡木桶待上四、五年才得以竟其功。 然而像Marc de Grazia這樣的現代主義者則認為 Nebbiolo 的香氣發展曲線很類似 Bourgogne 的 Pinot Noir, 年輕時以新鮮果香見長, 等Nebbiolo成熟之後, 其實新潮派的 Barolo 也會發展出類似古典學派的老酒香氣, 甚至更好, 那麼, 何必剝奪 Nebbiolo 年輕時的可愛果香面貌呢? 他認為古典學派的做法只是妥協了清新的果香, 除此之外, 傳統以及古典並不比較偉大!” 相信在這兩段文章中的清楚介紹之下, 大家大致上對於 Barolo 以及 Barbaresco 有一個基本認知.


Official Comment:
Lack of Data.

WS Comment:
"Intense aromas of plums, mushroom and cedar follow through to a full-bodied palate, with big velvety tannins and an ultrarich aftertaste. Blockbuster and excellent value. Best after 2008. 4,100 cases made."

Other Comments:
“The grapes for Damilano's Barolo come from rented or supervised vineyards in various areas of Barolo country. In 2001, as in most vintages, the quality of this Barolo matches that of the estate's two single-vineyard Barolos, Liste and Cannubi, which come from the family-owned 11 acres of Nebbiolo vines in the Cannubi, Liste and Fossati vineyards, all in the commune of Barolo. 4,100 cases made.” - http://www.uniquewine.com/etc.html

“Speaking of which, the 2001 Damilano Barolo is amazing.
Eyes: lucid ruby tapering to sunburst orange at the edge.
Nose: a wafting and sensuously layered nose full of chocolate, cherry, and tobacco (and mushrooms???). Simply amazing. Not overpowering. Not a jammy or dense new world fruit wine. But an elegant sensuality that embraces my nose and wraps it with exquisite gentleness and character.
Palate: A soft and perfectly balanced structure that is velvet and strength merged as one. There is a "pine-tree" softness flavor that co-mingles with the chocolate and cherry while the tobacco touches my tongue and the other (I think it is mushroom - shitaki?) teases. What an amazing sensation.
Finish: Perfect. It stays and tapers in a symphonic decrescendo to a glowing flavor silence.” - The Wine Cask Blog

Several Damilano Barolo 2001 Tasting Notes

Personal Comment:
Sight: Old wine style red. In the other words, it looks like half-way dark but transparent garnet red (moderate translucent garnet). Rim appears to be orange color with very thin and tight tears which seems very sticky.
Nose: Cherry, plum and alcohol aromas at the beginning. Then it develops flavors of caramel, chocolate, perfume peach, and floral. This Barolo delivers several level of scents generated along the time going by. Some of them are very intense such as plum and chocolate, and rests are pretty subtle.
Taste: Nice acidity, crisp, alcohol, and full-bodied red wine. After 1 to 2 hours of being decanted, it turns out to be powerful tannins and long lingering. Indeed, it needs to be decanted. Therefore, this Barolo is still pretty young to drink it which I agree with WS maturity expectation. It is worth to buy more and stock them into the cellar for later celebration. Cheers…
Since the first impression of Barolo was so fantastic, I can’t wait to taste more Barolo in the very soon future. Also, recently I find its price can be as low as 22.99 dollar per bottle. According to this price level, it definitely can get higher score than 92 of Wine Spectator.
先以一段 Nectar Corner 在”1997 義大利酒品酒會”的一句話作開頭: “會中H教授提到 Nebbiolo 這種葡萄雖然釀出來的酒顏色不深, 但是香氣不錯, 而且又有陳年空間。” 就這一瓶 Barolo 來說, 對於 Nebbiolo 的顏色描述, 可說是非常地道地, 因為它的顏色並不像 Cabernet Sauvignon 般地寶石紅深紅色澤, 用咖啡的顏色來形容它則顯得有些過於棕黃, 所以只好用半透明的番石榴色來表達這樣的色澤, 有種陳年老酒的顏色氣勢, 酒淚則是緊密狹窄, 展現出酒精濃厚的表現.
在香味的呈現, 明顯地有許多的層次, 先是櫻桃, 李子, 甘油的氣味在前領軍, 之後便是焦糖與巧克力的香味伴隨在後, 經過一段時間的醒酒之後, 還有那玫瑰花香與新鮮水蜜桃令人垂涎欲滴的水果香, 真可說是香味不斷.
最後談到它的口感, 在酸度, 澀度, 以及酒精的三位一體之均衡結構表現之下, 這款重度酒體的 Barolo 有著緊密細緻的單寧, 與為時甚久的回甘, 可說是結合年輕酒的果香與老酒的醇厚, 在價格只有美金22.99元的 Barolo, 對我來說可真是物超所值的選酒目標, 在某一方面而言, 似乎 Wine Spectator 給這 Damilano 2001 Barolo 92分應該還稍嫌過低.


飲葡萄酒的歷史, 又翻開新的一頁...

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